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Sunday, March 21, 2010

Can you handle fat?

No question: Low-carbohydrate diets generate improved postprandial lipoprotein responses.



Here's a graph from one of Jeff Volek's great studies:







Participants followed a low-carb diet of less than 50 g per day carbohydrate ("ketogenic") with 61% fat.   The curves were generated by administering a 123 g fat challenge with triglyceride levels assessed postprandially. The solid line represents the postprandial response at the start; dotted line after the 6-week low-carb effort.



Note that:



1) The postprandial triglyceride (area-under-the-curve) response was reduced by 29% in the low-carb diet.  That's a good thing.



2) The large fat challenge generated high triglycerides of greater than 160 mg/dl even in the low-carb group. That's a bad thing. 



In other words, low-carb improves postprandial responses substantially--but postprandial phenomena still occur. Postprandial triglycerides of 88 mg/dl or greater are associated with greater heart attack risk because they signify the presence of greater quantities of atherogenic (plaque-causing) postprandial lipoproteins.



A full discussion of these phenomena can be found in the Track Your Plaque Special Report, Postprandial Responses: The Storm After the Quiet!, part of a 3-part series on postprandial phenomena.



Happy Spring Everyone!

Saturday, March 20, 2010

HOW TO PROPAGATE AND GROW CHILI PEPPERS FROM SEED





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The chili pepper is of the few foods that can actually devide a family. You will either love it or hate it, but as an indispensable ingredient for many regional and national dishes, the hot chili pepper is here to stay.

You can start your chili peppers off indoors around January for if you want them to establish quickly for outdoor planting or sow anytime up to the end of March for greenhouse growing.
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Sow your chili pepper seeds - adequately spaced - into either plugs or a seed tray containing John Innes ‘seed’ compost. Top them off with another 1/2 inch of compost then gently water them in. It's important that the seeds remain moist until they germinate and as such will require adequate ventilation to prevent fungal rots. If ventilation is poor you may need to spray your newly germinating seedlings with a liquid fungicide once a week to protect them.
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Once germinated – this will be normally between 7 and 24 days - pepper seedlings will require plenty of light, in fact for optimal growth they will need between 12 to 16 hours of light a day. If the weather isn’t yet suitable for planting outside then they will need to be placed onto a south-facing windowsill but remember to turn them daily to keep them from acquiring a permanent lean.
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Once the seedlings have produced four leaves they will be ready to prick out into individual pots, but you need to be careful so as not to damage the fragile root system. The safest way is to gently hold onto one of the sturdier leaves while using either a pencil or slim dibber to lift the roots as intact and undisturbed as possible. When re-potting, use either a standard multipurpose compost or John Innes ‘No.1’ or ‘No.2’ potting compost.Grow them on for another couple of weeks and they will be ready for either the greenhouse or for planting directly outside into open ground once the threat of frosts is over. Make sure you choose a location that is in full sunlight and - if you have it - mix in some mushroom compost or other organic compost to help keep the soil fertile and moist.
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For more information click onto:

WHICH VEGETABLE SEEDS CAN BE SOWN AND GROW IN MARCH







March is a month that is full of choices and anticipation for the vegetable gardener. It is also an opportunity to try new and exotic crop varieties that are outside the normal ‘tried and tested’ range of allotment keepers.

But there is another side to starting vegetable seeds off this early. If you intend growing tender South American crops - such as pepper and tomato varieties - outside in the open ground, they will not be able to produce an edible crop until the back end of summer or even early autumn.
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Not only is that an awfully long time to wait for a decent crop, the cropping period will be short. More importantly, there will be a high risk of fungal infection with the onset of the cooler, damper autumn weather. Starting these crops early and bringing them on under protection for a few weeks can dramatically bring the cropping period forward. In fact, anything up to two months is quite normal.
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The freezing grip of winter should now be a thing of the past but don’t let a warm spell trick you into thinking that the cold weather has gone. Late frosts have been the undoing of many an early crop so while it can be tempting to put your treasured seedlings outside into the warming soil, keep a watchful eye on overnight temperatures. Make sure that young seedlings are offered plenty of protection if night temperatures dip too low, or even consider bringing them back inside to heated conditions.

Below is a list of some of the more popular vegetable varieties for sowing in March:
Aubergine

Brussels Sprouts
Broad Beans

Beetroot

Cauliflower
Cabbage
Cucumbers
Calabrese
Carrots

Lettuce

Leeks
Peas
Peppers - Chili

Peppers - Sweet

Parsnips
Radish

Sprouting seeds

Tomatoes

For more information click onto:

Friday, March 19, 2010

Butter and insulin

In a previous post, Atkins Diet: Common Errors, I commented on butter's unusual ability to provoke insulin responses. I offer this as a possible reason why, after a period of effective weight loss on a low-carbohydrate program, inclusion of some foods, such as butter, will trigger weight gain or stall weight loss efforts.



This develops because of butter's insulin-triggering effect, doubling or tripling insulin responses (postprandial area-under-the-curve). If insulin is triggered, fat gain follows.



Here's one such study documenting this effect: Distinctive postprandial modulation of β cell function and insulin sensitivity by dietary fats: monounsaturated compared with saturated fatty acids



López et al 2008





From Lopez et al 2008. Mean (± SD) plasma glucose, insulin, triglyceride, and free fatty acid (FFA) concentrations during glucose and triglyceride tolerance test meal (GTTTM) with no fat (control), enriched in monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFAs) from refined olive oil (ROO meal), with added butter, with a mixture of vegetable and fish oils (VEFO) or with high-palmitic sunflower oil (HPSO). N = 14.



The postprandial (after-eating) area-under-the-curve is substantially greater when butter is included in the mixed composition meal. This effect is not unique to butter, but is shared by most other dairy products.



Fat, in general, does not make you fat. But butter makes you fat.



Thursday, March 18, 2010

HOW TO GROW RED KIDNEY BEANS FROM DRIED SEED





CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP

I don’t know how it is where you live but none on the seed suppliers in my area carry red kidney beans as part of their range. Maybe it’s because they are too tender to grow in this part of the country – unlikely, or perhaps it’s because of their toxicity if they are not correctly prepared before cooking and eating. I don’t know answer for sure, but I do know that you can pick up large packs of dried red kidney beans in your local supermarket.

I love to grow the same edible crops that are used in our home cooking, and as chilli-con-carne is a favourite in my family, home grown red kidney beans are a must. With knowledge gained from last year’s trials and errors, I shall now give you my so called ‘expert’ tips in how to grow red Kidney beans from dried seed. It begins with choosing a free draining site that gets plenty of sun and is protected from harsh weather. It is also worth preparing the ground a couple of months before you intent planting you red kidney beans with plenty of mulch and farmyard manures.

How to germinate red kidney beans from dried seed.
1. Create your own compost using a 2:1:1 mix of John Innes ‘Seed and Potting’ compost, Horticultural grit and top soil from where they will be finally planted.

2. Soak a handful of dried beans overnight in a bowl of luke- warm water.

3. Using modular plug trays or 2-3inch pots – do not use seed trays as you need to keep root disturbance to an absolute minimum – sow your seeds, 1 per pot/module into your compost mix, having the bean about ½ inch below the surface.

4. Water well and then move to a warm, bright windowsill – keep moist, but do not allow the compost to become water-logged.

5. The beans will begin to germinate after a couple of days and after there have produced their first two true leave they can be hardened off for planting outside. DO NOT EAT THE SPROUTS AS THEY ARE TOXIC!
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6. Planting red kidney beans can only be considered after the threat of frosts is over and when outside temperatures are consistently reaching 16 degrees Celsius.

7. Plant seedlings 18 inches apart in rows 2ft apart.

8. Red kidney beans are prone to damage from slugs and snails so make sure that there is adequate protection against these pests as soon as the plants go outside.

9. During the growing season be aware that red kidney beans require plenty of water and nutrition otherwise the crop can fail – mulching regularly will help with this.

10. Your beans will grow as a small bush and need support during the growing season. Make sure that this in place shortly after planting – give them the same support that you would do peas such as wigwams or small stakes.

When to harvest kidney beans
Allow the bean pods to dry as much as they can before the wet weather of autumn arrives. If they are not dry enough before that time, pick them and allow them to dry off fully indoors. Once completely dry they can be stored or used for cooking.

Important!
Dried beans also contain toxins, so when cooking with dried beans they must be soaked overnight in cold water. Afterwards, rinse the beans thoroughly then boil them rapidly for 10 minutes before adding them with your other recipe ingredients.
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For more information click onto:

Atkins Diet: Common errors

No doubt: The diet approach advocated by the late Dr. Robert Atkins was a heck of a lot closer to an ideal diet than the knuckleheaded advice emitting from the USDA, American Heart Association, American Diabetes Association, and the Surgeon General's office.



But having just spent a week with Atkins low-carbers, here are some common errors that I see many make, errors that I believe have long-term health consequences, including impairment of weight loss.



Excessive consumption of animal products--Non-restriction of fat often leads to over-reliance on animal products. Higher intakes of red meats (heme proteins?) have been strongly associated with increased risk for colon and other gastrointestinal tract cancers. It is not a fat issue; it is an animal product issue. We should consume less meat, more vegetables and other plant-sourced foods.



Consumption of cured meats--Cured, processed meats, such as sausage, hot dogs, salami, bologna, and bacon, have a color fixative called sodium nitrite, an additive that has been confidently linked to gastrointestinal cancers. Risk is likely dose-dependent: The more you ingest, the greater the long-term risk.



Overconsumption of dairy products--Dairy products, especially milk, yogurt, cottage cheese, and butter, are potent insulinotropic foods, i.e., foods that trigger insulin release. There can be up to a tripling of insulin (area-under-the-curve) levels. This is not good in a world populated with tired, overworked pancreases, exhausted from a lifetime of high-carbohydrate eating.



Too many calories--While I agree that "a calorie is a calorie" and "calories in, calories out" are faulty concepts, I have anecdotally observed that long-time low-carbers often trend towards unlimited consumption of food, a phenomenon that seems to result in weight gain, especially in the sedentary. I wonder if this is a reflection of the insulinotropic action of dairy products and other proteins, compounded by the poor insulin responsiveness that develops with lack of physical activity. Factor into this conversation that lower calorie intake extends life, probably substantially (Sirt-2 activation and related phenomena, a la resveratrol). If lower calorie intake extends life, unlimited calorie intake likely shortens life.



Please don't hear this as low-carb bashing--it is not. It is a call to improve diets and not stumble into common traps that can impair heart health, weight loss, and longevity.



Tuesday, March 16, 2010

ELEPHANTS - CAN THEY RUN OR DO THEY JUST WALK FAST?




CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP

Can elephants run? This is a question that has been puzzling both children and scientists alike for over a century. Although they are quite capable of moving at high speeds – up to 11 mph – are they truly running, or is it that they are just capable of walking very, very fast?

This fundamental question arises from the elephant’s awkward, lumbering gait, but scientists now believe that they have an answer. Using high-speed cameras, a research team observed a number of Indian elephants as they moved across a specially built track. Furthermore, the track that was able to precisely measure the forces exerted with each elephant step.

By comparing the measurements from the sensitive force-measuring platform with each frame of the footage, the scientists were able to look at every tiny movement the elephants were making.

Below is a segment of film that was used in this research.



Professor Heglund - one of the scientists on the team - had this explanation of the results:

‘...the running gait, in most animals, is a bouncing mechanism. In this case, the potential and kinetic energy are in phase, they both hit a maximum at the same time and a minimum at the same time, so they cannot be transferred back and forth...’

‘...when an elephant goes at higher and higher speeds, the kinetic and potential energy shift and start to become more in phase, but when we looked in detail, we see that the animal appears to be running - bouncing - with the front legs, and walking with the back legs. It is as if he is getting up to a transition speed where he wants to transition from a walk to a run, but he can’t quite do it. It's like he can't quite get up into second gear...’

So what does this all mean? Well the answer is simple. Elephants run with their front legs and walk with their hind legs – be it a fast walk. Question solved!

For more information click onto:
British Birds of Paradise
Caring for Insect Eating Birds in Winter
Discovered - of New Species of Giant Carnivorous Plant
Easter Island - a Lesson in Environmental Exploitation
Food Plants For Butterflies
Food Plants For Caterpillars
How do Elephants Communicate and Talk to Each Other?
How do Lizards Run on Water?
How Does a Pitcher Plant Attract, Catch and Trap Insects
How Does a Venus Flytrap Work?
How to Attract Bumblebees to the Suburban Garden
How to Attract the Hummingbird Hawk Moth
How to Make a Butterfly Garden
How to Make a Wildlife Pond
Jellyfish Swarms - The Latest Man-Made disaster?
Nectar Rich American Wildflowers for Attracting Native Bumble Bees
Nectar Rich Plants for Attracting Long-Tongued Bumble Bees
Non- Native Invasive Species - The Chinese Mitten Crab
Non-Native Invasive Species - The Japanese Knotweed
Non-Native Invasive Species - The Harlequin Ladybird
Non-Native Invasive Species - The American Signal Crayfish
Non-Native Invasive Species - The Ring-Necked Parakeet
Plants that Attract the Hummingbird Hawk Moth
Sacrificial Planting Seed Bearing Plants for Attracting Wild Finches
Native Plants - The Snake's Head Fritillary
The Eagle Owl - Friend or Foe?
The Importance of Log Piles to Native Wildlife
The 'Native Trees' of England
The Plight of English Woodlands
What can we do to Help Save the Rainforests
What do Carnivorous Plants really Eat - Animal Poo?
What is 'Slash and Burn' Farming and How does it Affect the Rainforests?
Which Plants can Attract Bats into the Garden?
Why are Tropical Rainforests so Important?
Why do Carnivorous Plants Eat Insects and Animals?
Why Shark Fin Soup is Devastating World Shark Populations
Why Should we Protect the Rainforest?

HOW TO GROW MELONS IN A GREENHOUSE






When growing melons in an unheated greenhouse you will have three options. The plants can either be container grown, planted straight into the ground, or grown on using a grow bag. By far the best option would be to plant your seedlings into the ground – especially if it has been well prepared by the addition of plenty of well rotted farmyard manures – so long as it is suitably free draining and has a pH of between 6.0 to 7.0. Consider planting melon seedlings into raised beds if your climate is too cold, humid or if your soil is too heavy to be free draining.

If you are growing melons in a greenhouse it is reasonable to expect that any young plants would have been shop bought or germinated under protection. In both cases, the seedlings can be planted out into a cold glasshouse once the seedlings have produced two or more true leaves. This can be done any time from April onwards.

The next thing to do is to create some support for you melon plants as they grow. This can be a piece of secured trellis or a single line of string tied to the supports in the glasshouse roof and secured in the ground with a peg next to the base of the melon plant. As the melon begins to grow you should secure the strongest shoot to the support with a soft jute string and pinch out any side shoots growing out from the main stem. Once the main stem has reached the top of the support, pinch out the leading shoot. This will help bring the plant into flower and allow it to concentrate its energy on the formation of fruits.
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WATERING
Watering holds the key to successful melon growing, and perhaps the best way to water is with a drip irrigation system - unfortunately this is a luxury that few of us have. For the rest of us, when watering melons only water them at the base of the plant making sure that none of the foliage becomes wet. Melon leaves can be very prone to fungal infections which will reduce the size and quality of your crop.

You can also consider the practise of sinking a suitably sized pipe into the ground next to the plants root system – try not to damage any roots when doing this - so you can water directly into the root environment. Remember that it is all about trying to maintain an even root environment so try and avoid over and under-watering. Over-watering is particularly damaging as it can cause the fruits to split.
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AIR CIRCULATION
Glasshouse conditions can become extreme during the height of the summer. To prevent your crop from suffering heat damage try to raise the humidity within the greenhouse on the hottest days. This can be achieved by watering the greenhouse paths early in the morning or by standing a bucket of water in the middle of the glasshouse. However, good ventilation is also necessary in order to help reduce the incidence of fungal infections so make sure that windows and doors are kept open during the core day. Remove older leaves from the base of the melons as this will also improve air circulation around the plants.

FLOWERING
In the open ground your melon flowers will be naturally pollinated by native insects but under greenhouse conditions this is less likely to happen as the structure will act as a barrier. Of course, no pollination means no crop, but once the flowers have opened you can pollinate them manually. Using a small, soft paintbrush, lightly brush each flower in turn. This practice is best carried out midday when the humidity is high. After 2 or 3 days you should remove the male flowers as these will sap the plants strength as they grow - the female flowers are easily identified by the embryonic melon growing behind the flower.
FERTILISER
Feeding your melons is a simple enough task. Use a high potash liquid fertiliser on a weekly basis as soon as the fruits start to grow

MAINTENANCE
As soon as the fruits reach the size of tennis balls they are going to need some support. Use string nets or old nylon stockings to take the weight off the plants framework and secure them properly to support wires, trellis or the greenhouse frame. As the summer progresses and the fruits mature to full size, remove a few leafs to allow the fruit to ripen.

HARVESTING
Wait until melons are fully ripe before you remove them from the parent plant - they won't be able to ripen off the vine

For more information click onto:
How to Collect and Prepare Butternut Squash Seeds for propagation
How to Collect and Prepare French and Runner Beans for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Lettuce seeds for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Melon and Cucumber Seeds for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Hardy Passion Flower Seed for Sowing
How to Collect and Prepare Pea Seeds for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Pumpkin Seeds for Germination
How to Collect and Prepare Strawberry Seed for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Sweet and Chilli Pepper Seeds for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Tomato Seeds for Propagation
How to Collect, Prepare, and Save Okra Seed for Germination
How to Germinate and Grow Melon Plants from Seed
How to Germinate and Grow Okra from Seed Indoors
How to Grow Amaranth from Seed
How to Grow Artichokes from Seed
How to Grow Asparagus from Seed
How to Grow Aubergines From Seed
How to Grow Autumn Sowings of Sweet Peas
How to Grow Basil from Seed
How to Grow Basil from Seed IndoorsHow to Grow Beetroot from Seed
How to Grow Broad Beans from Seed
How to Grow Butternut Squash from Seed
How to Grow Citrus from Seed
How to Grow Eggplants from Seed
How to Grow Greenhouse Tomato Plants from Seed
How to Grow Jalapeno Peppers from Seed
How to Grow a Lemon Tree from Seed
How to Grow Lettuce From Seed
How to Grow Melon Plants from Seed Outdoors
How to Grow Okra from Seed Outdoors
How to Grow an Orange Tree from Seed
How to Grow Oregano from Seed
How to Grow Outdoor Tomato Plants from Seed
How to Grow Parsley from Seed Indoors
How to Grow Peppadew Peppers from Seed
How to Grow Pumpkins from Seed
How to Grow the Pyrethrum Daisy from Seed
How to Grow Radish from Seed
How to Grow Strawberries from Seed
How to Grow the Autumn Broad Bean 'Aquadulce Claudia'
How to Grow the Autumn Fava Bean 'Aquadulce Claudia'
How to Grow Watercress from Seed
How to Grow Winter Lettuce from Seed
How to Plant and Grow Artichokes
How to Grow Autumn Sowings of Broad Beans
How to Propagate and Grow Sweet Peppers from Seed
How to Propagate and Grow the Bell Pepper from Seed
Organic Seeds with the Royal Connection
Starting Tomato Plants From Seed


Monday, March 15, 2010

NON-NATIVE INVASIVE SPECIES – THE CHINESE MITTEN CRAB





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The United Kingdom - as well as almost every other country on the planet - has often suffered from the effects of environmental damage through the proliferation of non-native species. For millennia, mankind has travelled the world, followed quickly by the establishment of trade routes and the movement of valuable animal and plant commodities. Unfortunately these routes have also brought their fair share of problems such as the globalisation of small pox, influenza and the infamous ‘black death’.

Today similar problems exist and while modern medicine had made great strides in the prevention of such epidemics there is still an on-going problem with the deliberate and accidental introduction of non-native plant and animal species into sensitive environments. Recent history has already shown us the terrible destruction that can be reaped through the experiences of Hawaii, Australia and New Zealand.

Invasive non-native plant and animal species are now the second greatest threat to biodiversity worldwide after habitat destruction. This is because they can have a negative impact on native species, as well as for the damage caused to the environment, and as a secondary issue - local economies.

The Chinese mitten crab is just the latest in a long line of alien introductions that have caused havoc in our country’s waterways. First recorded in the River Thames in 1935, populations of the Chinese mitten crab remained localised for decades, but since the 1990’s their populations have seen a dramatic increase in both size and range of habitat. It is now well-established in the Rivers Thames, Humber, Medway, Tyne, Wharfe and Ouse.

They are aggressive, have few predators and will eat almost anything that they can get their claws into – aquatic plants, native fish eggs, and molluscs. Their opportunistic lifestyle has made them a hugely successful introduction, but this success has been at a high cost to the local environment. To make things worse, they can burrow a metre or more into river banks, affecting their integrity. At a time of increased flooding risk, areas where there are significant numbers of Chinese Mitten crabs have seen their once stable river banks collapse, causing considerable damage.

Chinese mitten crabs will happily survive in both fresh and saltwater. In fact, their young are born in coastal regions or estuaries, and then they migrate up the river to spend their adult lives in freshwater. Years later - when they reach sexual maturity - they will return back to the saltwater to breed. However, once they are in freshwater, they can move huge distances.

Dr. Paul Clark from the Natural History Museum had this to say on the matter:

‘...studies have shown they can migrate up to 1,500km. The crab can even leave the water, cross dry land and enter a new river system. Its phenomenal ability to disperse is of concern to scientists in the UK because the crab could infiltrate many of the country's rivers...’

For these reasons it has now been placed on the IUCN (the International Union for Conservation of Nature) 100 of the world’s worst alien species list.

The Chinese mitten crab was given its intriguing name because its large claws - which are covered by soft bristles - resemble mittens. Its scientific name ‘Eriocheir sinensis’ derived from the Greek, means wool hand.

For more information click onto:
Are Slug Pellets Poisoning Our Wildlife
British Birds of Paradise
Caring for Insect Eating Birds in Winter
Easter Island - a Lesson in Environmental Exploitation
Edible Crop Pollination and the Decline of Bees
Elephants - Can they Run or do they just Walk Fast?
Fall in Bee Populations Linked to Decline in Plant BiodiversityFood Plants For Butterflies
Food Plants For Caterpillars
How do Elephants Communicate and Talk to Each Other?
How do Lizards Run on Water?
How to Attract Bumblebees to the Suburban Garden
How to Attract the Hummingbird Hawk Moth
How to Make a Butterfly Garden
How to Make a Wildlife Pond
Jellyfish Swarms - The Latest Man-Made disaster?
Light Pollution and the Decline in Bat Populations
Light Pollution and the Decline of Native Insects
Light Pollution - The Hidden Threat
Lost Frog Returned from Extinction
Native Pond Plants
Nectar Rich American Wildflowers for Attracting Native Bumble Bees
Nectar Rich Plants for Attracting Long-Tongued Bumble Bees
Non-Native Invasive Species - The Harlequin Ladybird
Non-Native Invasive Species - The American Signal Crayfish
Non-Native Invasive Species - The Ring-Necked Parakeet
Pesticides Toxic to Honey Bees
Plants that Attract the Hummingbird Hawk Moth
Sacrificial Planting
Seed Bearing Plants for Attracting Wild Finches
Native Plants - The Snake's Head Fritillary
The Decline of Butterfly and Caterpillar Habitat
The Decline of Insect Eating Birds
The Eagle Owl - Friend or Foe?
The Importance of Log Piles to Native Wildlife
The 'Native Trees' of England
The Plight of English Woodlands
What are the Natural, Native Predators of Vine Weevils
What are the Safe Organic Alternative to Slug Pellets
What can we do to Help Save the Rainforests
What is 'Slash and Burn' Farming and How does it Affect the Rainforests?
Which Native Animals Eat Slugs and Snails
Which Plants can Attract Bats into the Garden?
Why are Tropical Rainforests so Important?
Why Shark Fin Soup is Devastating World Shark Populations
Why Should we Protect the Rainforest?

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Fat Head, Wheat belly, and the Adventures of Ancel Keys

Here's another great clip from Tom Naughton's documentary, Fat Head, describing the colossal mistakes made in "official" dietary advice, starting with the blunders of Dr. Ancel Keyes :











I'd be crying if Tom Naughton didn't make me laugh so hard.